Summer times and the living is easy.....

On our way to the top of the Amphitheatre, Drakensberg

Summer, warmth and rain are here in force. Everything is growing prolifically and Africa is now a rich deep green and life abounds. Our mango tree is literally dripping with fruit and eating under it has now become a serious liability. We only have to reach up to enjoy the exquisite sweet taste and get our teeth flossed in the bargain. Ilda’s veggie patch is bulging and I think if we eat spinach again the girls will rebel! Alas our pool seems to be growing too and is also a rich deep green with an abundance of life! With a potential ending date in site we still love exploring this beautiful country and have had a number of fabulous adventures.

Amphitheatre, Drakensberg

A camping trip to Banga Neck was unforgettable for our turtle experience. Full moon, spring low tide and a breathless night made for perfect conditions for our guided walk along this remote beach in search of laying loggerhead turtles. We had spectacularly good fortune with no less than half a dozen turtles spotted with egg counting and close observation of two of them. The girls were enthralled by this marvel of nature where the turtles travel hundreds of kilometers back to their original beaches. Then, under cover of darkness, laboriously crawl up the beach, dig a deep hole with their flippers beyond the high-water-mark and deposit around 100 ping-pong ball size eggs into this pit, firmly cover them up and then struggle exhausted back and away into the sea. The minute turtles hatch about 2 months later but only about 1% will survive to adulthood thanks to all the predators that lie in wait for this scrumptious treat.

Then we experienced the drama of the Natal Drakensberg ( Quathlamba in Zulu meaning ‘Barrier of Spears’) A long drive via Pongola and Northern Natal and then around the lower part of the Orange Free State and into Qua Qua (one of the old “Homelands” from the apartheid era) deposited us at Sentinel Car park at about 2500 meters elevation. This is spectacular in that it provides the idle or infirm an incredible advantage with a gentle 2 hour walk putting one on top of the Drakensberg at well over 3000m and what one author describes as “the best view in South Africa”. We set off before 6 (including my 75yo Mum and 7yo Zara) and enjoyed dramatic black sky with a magnificent rainbow. The walk was relatively easy going and culminated in two chain ladders of 30 and 10m which Margot, Zara and my Mum made light work of. The view from the top of the Amphitheatre and the lip of the Tugela Falls is indeed phenomenal and left us breathless and weak-kneed. After the descent we drove round to Royal Natal National park and again enjoyed dramatic views of the Amphitheatre and one of the best camp sites we have ever had the pleasure to stay in.

Thatchers cottage; we stayed here on our way to the Berg

Last week Ilda planned a mid week break to celebrate the end of the school year for the girls. She has had a spectacular year with them and I sometimes wonder how they will ever adapt back into conventional school, such is the richness of one-on-one teaching from Mum. We bundled everything into the trusty Pathfinder and bounced down the 3km to Lake Sibaya, the biggest fresh water lake in South Africa. We enjoyed some fishing and a braai on the lake edge but unfortunately swimming is discouraged because of Bilharzia in the lake, not to mention the odd croc and even hippos! Our night was punctuated by the incessant grunt of hippo and I was slightly concerned that they might just pay us a visit. I was up with the dawn soon after 4am and enjoyed some more fishing, a golden sunrise and a marvelous parade of birds including Giant heron, kingfishers and even a Fish Eagle. Then we enjoyed a mug of tea and toast on the fire, made by the girls, before I trotted the few kilometers back to the hospital and a shower and work. Now that is the sort of commute that appeals to me!

And so it goes on; diving again at Sodwana with the usual array of spectacular coral and marine life, a trip up into the hills to Ingwavuma where the girls took part in a fun run with Margot completing 10km and Zara 3; camping at Ndumo game reserve, famous in South Africa for the magnificent bird life and a drive to a lookout point where we could gaze into both Mozambique and Swaziland, on the banks of the Usuthu river; and finally this last week-end where we took a crowd from the hospital to Hluhluwe-Imfolozi game reserve and stayed in a little private hut completely unfenced and exposed to the drama of the park. We enjoyed game viewing like never before seeing lots of young animals including six gorgeous brand new warthogs and lots of fragile new Impala; lion, elephant, rhino for Africa, majestic Kudu, no less than six Cheetah and some in our party were lucky to see a Leopard.

Our ending date is yet to be finalized but likely to be end February and I feel satiated. This year has exceeded all our expectations and we feel privileged and enriched to have been part of this wonderful land that is South Africa. I have seen my children grow and love the raw nature of this country and all it has to offer and I have seen Ilda’s apprehension evolve into enthusiasm and then passion. We wish you all a wonderful Christmas with those you love and may the New year be a great one.