Inglis in Africa: A Weekend in Swaziland

Princesses performing

Swaziland is only 1 ½ hour from home. It is the HIV/AIDS capital of the world with most of the population infected and a life expectancy of about 43 years. It is a kingdom and people pay respect to their king in various ways.

This weekend was a special occasion for the King to choose a new bride amongst 60,000 bare breasted maidens who were putting on an impressive show of dances and singing in the King’s new stadium in the Ezalwini Valley. The occasion is called the Reed Dance Festival.

Before entering the premises, I got stopped by a police officer pointing out my trousers and saying that women visitors needed to wear a long skirt to be allowed before the King. I quickly went to buy a piece of material at a side stall to wrap round my waste and I was allowed in with the officer smiling!

The place was full of excited young maidens all gathering in groups, each of them carrying a piece of reed. The reed is a gift to the King’s mother to help with the yearly repair and maintenance of her residence's thatched roof.

We waited expectantly for 2 hours before the King’s warriors appeared, leading the King and his mother to their thrones, his many wives following as well as all the official delegates. The stadium’s grounds finally started to fill up with the maidens coming in groups according to their geographical area in Swaziland, all singing and performing in beautiful harmony. The one that stood out were the “princesses” with their beautiful red feathers in their hair all dressed up in traditional clothing. The “princesses” are all the descendants to the King and his family. I must say that there seemed to be a lot of them!

It was a great show of youth, colours, beauty and traditions in a country so stricken by HIV/AIDS. How many maidens are going to make it through?

Ilda